Korean Retro Pork Cutlet
If you grew up in Korea during the 1970s or 80s, the word 돈까스 probably brings back a wave of warm nostalgia — the clinking of forks and knives in a small diner, the smell of sizzling breaded pork, and a plate that seemed almost too fancy to be everyday food. This is the story of 옛날 돈까스, the beloved Korean retro pork cutlet.
The journey of this dish begins far from Korea, in 19th-century Japan. Inspired by European breaded pork cutlets, Japan created tonkatsu — a thick, juicy pork loin, breaded and deep-fried, served with shredded cabbage and a tangy Worcestershire-based sauce. During the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945), tonkatsu made its way to Korea. But it wasn’t until decades later that Koreans truly made it their own.
In the 1970s and 80s, as Korea was racing through a period of rapid modernization, 경양식집 — small “Western-style” diners — became popular. They offered a taste of the West that was affordable and approachable. And at the heart of their menus was the Korean interpretation of tonkatsu: 옛날 돈까스. Unlike its Japanese cousin, this cutlet was pounded very thin to appear larger on the plate, breaded lightly, and cooked until crisp. Instead of the thick, savoury tonkatsu sauce, it was topped with a sweeter, tangier, and more runny sauce — often made from ketchup, soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes thickened with a buttery flour roux.
A plate of 옛날 돈까스 wasn’t just about the meat. It was a whole experience: rice on one side, a mound of shredded cabbage with sweet dressing, a scoop of potato salad, a few pickles, and sometimes even a side of spaghetti — a delightful mashup of “Western” style and Korean comfort food. For many families, it was a treat for birthdays, graduations, or Sunday outings.
Today, 옛날 돈까스 has made a comeback. Retro-themed restaurants in Seoul serve it exactly as it was in the past, and home cooks recreate it for its simplicity, budget-friendliness, and comforting flavors. Some make it with cheese fillings, some use chicken or vegan alternatives, and others — like this pan-fried version — adapt it for modern kitchens without losing its charm.
In the end, 옛날 돈까스 is more than just breaded pork. It’s a slice of Korean culinary history — a dish that travelled across cultures, adapted to new tastes, and became a beloved comfort food that still brings joy to every bite.
Korean Retro Pork Cutlet (옛날식 돈까스)
Ingredients
Method
- Score the connective tissue (silver skin) on the pork and pound it with a meat mallet or the back of a knife to flatten it evenly.
- Season both sides with salt and pepper, and let sit for 10 minutes.
- Dredge each piece in flour, dip in beaten egg, and coat evenly with breadcrumbs.
- Press breadcrumbs firmly to help them stick well.
- Heat a generous amount of oil in a large frying pan (about 1/3–1/2 the thickness of the meat).
- Preheat the oil over medium heat until a breadcrumb sizzles when dropped in.
- Fry the cutlets for about 2–3 minutes per side, until golden brown.
- Avoid flipping too often — let one side fully cook before turning.
- Drain excess oil on a paper towel or grill rack.
- In a separate pan, melt butter and stir in flour to create a roux. Cook over medium-low heat until it turns golden and smells nutty (about 1–2 minutes).
- Add chopped onion and sauté until translucent.
- Add ketchup, soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, water, and pepper. Simmer for 3–5 minutes until slightly thickened.
- Adjust flavor with optional mustard or oyster sauce for deeper taste.
- Slice the pork cutlets and arrange on a plate.
- Pour the warm sauce generously over the cutlets.
- Serve with shredded cabbage, rice, potato salad, and pickles on the side.
Notes
Tips
- This pan-fry method works best with thinly pounded pork.
- Avoid high heat — medium heat ensures crispy outside and fully cooked inside.
- The roux-based sauce adds rich and savoury flavour — worth the effort!
- You can make the sauce in advance and reheat for deeper flavour.
